Dedicated to ceramics and glassware, this bijou boutique has a strong emphasis on Danish design, representing around 30 local designers. If Royal Copenhagen china isn’t quite your thing, you’ll find plenty of gorgeous alternatives here. I love this rather organic collection of coloured vases – so very pretty.
A trip to Copenhagen isn't really complete without sampling smorrebord
(Danish open sandwiches), and nobody does them better than the
legendary Ida Davidsen. Offering a mind-boggling 250 different types of open sandwiches, it's a cosy little restaurant to stop and refuel.
Store Kongensgade 70
Tel. 45 3391 3655
Home to a hippy community since the early 70s, Christiania is an autonomous neighbourhood just south of the city. Tourists are welcome to walk around and take in the markets, street art, galleries and vegetarian cafes (not to mention the heady whiff of weed in the air). I took these pics just outside the ‘no photography’ zone.
Row upon row of fresh pastries and cakes line the shelves of this
perfect Danish bakery, which is just past the bridge of a pretty
canal. It’s all rather overwhelming, but trade is brisk on the weekends so you will have plenty of time to mull over your purchases. If it all proves too much, just point at the nearest, plumpest, juiciest Danish (the pastry, not a person).
I spent a short but very sweet weekend in Copenhagen last year, which is an exceptionally pretty town with lots of treats for design obsessives. Everything you've heard about it being expensive is sadly very true (no cheapie Georg Jensen/ By Malene Birger/ Arne Jacobsen for me!), but I would have loved to have spent a wee bit longer and explored further afield. Still, I discovered quite a few gems on my travels. Here are some of my highlights…
Crème de la Crème a la Edgar
This utterly gorgeous boutique may be for (very fashionable) babies and children, but that didn't stop me from sighing over the incredible styling as well as the eclectic collection of toys and gifts.
Featuring an excellent (though very pricey) range of own-brand children’s knitwear alongside a selection of niche fashion labels, it’s definitely worth a peep – even if it’s just to catch a glimpse of the vintage wallpaper, floral-print cushions and brilliant ‘70s-style string art.
Crème de la Crème a la Edgar
Tel. +45 3336 1818
I was just about giddy with excitement when we booked lunch at this
double-Michelin-starred restaurant, which is renowned for its Nordic
cuisine and innovative use of local produce.
It's been billed as the third best restaurant in the world (behind elBulli and The Fat Duck), but nothing quite prepared me for just how exquisite it all was, from the animal pelts draped over the chairs to the series of ingenious amuse-bouches designed to tickle the senses. A single egg arrived on a bed of steaming straw, followed by crispy pork sprinkled with the prettiest edible flowers and a snowy dusting of powder. Then there was the potted vegetable, which you were invited to pluck from the edible 'soil' in a teracotta pot. It was all rather theatrical and extraordinary.
I had heard that the three-course lunch menu was quite reasonable at around £30 per head (considering its Michelin-starred status and all), but the wine list was unexpectedly astronomical, with prices starting at around £70 a bottle (the average price was double that). I know this is where restaurants really make their profit, but I was quite scared my dear old dad was going to have a heart attack. Should have stuck to the water. Still, it was an amazing and unforgettable experience.
Tel. +45 3296 3297
A treasure trove of the finest vintage clothes, FN.92 stocks an
impressive collection of frocks dating from the 1850s, as well as
costume jewellery, headpieces and bags.I particularly loved the collection of cotton ‘50s day frocks lined up outside the store. But just one thing: mind the (seemingly innocuous) steps on the way down to the shop (don’t ask).
Tel. +45 3313 2050
Part 2 coming tomorrow.
Here's a sneak peek of my trip to Copenhagen last year. It was a just a weekend break, but I somehow managed to squeeze in quite a few lovely things. Check back for some of my highlights tomorrow…